Tuesday, May 12, 2009

outer-space and Hair styles and Attitude


Today i climbed perhaps the best climb on the Bastille. 

6. Outer-Space 5.10+

Anyone who climbs this route knows why it has it's name, you feel like you alone on the moon. The route host's some of the most amazing exposure found in Eldo. Weighing in at a relatively easy 5.10+ and 3 pitches long, you can climb this route on even the hottest days of summer. I have climbed this route many times including once free solo.  Photo on left is Andrea on the last pitch. 



7. Hair styles and Attitudes 5.12c/d

This route takes the breathtaking headwall at the top center of the Bastille. It is a adventurous sport climb ( if you can say that) . The route took me 2 days to red point. good fun and well worth it. Perhaps a shade easier than the Evictor but more classic of a line. I think this route could go on a all natural , all gear ascent. 


(pictured above) 
8. Kings X 5.10+ ( but in my opinion solid 5.11a/b )

Henious.... full value and scary. oooh yeah and very very fun. It's like a easier version of the bombay pitch on the naked edge.  A good test of your smearing and stemming skills. Harder than vertigo which gets 11a . 

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