a little update

I'm back in school, i know, i am a man child plugging away at a college education in exchange for enormous amounts of debt. Anyhow besides the standard climbing and falling and sending i went to Radium hot springs near Kremmling colorado, there was a huge cliff jump and some easy deep water soloing, I also played photog and shot some artsy photos....

This is me climbing "river wild" 5.12d ish in clear creek canyon, the route was graded 13a and then in the new guide i believe they call it 12 b/c i think it lies in the middle somewhere, great route its exposure is killer. 

this is josh cleaning the pitch at the end, pretty steep.

sam from the wilderness exchange crushing on Kayak trundle or something to that effect, either way its fucking hard and now with his new sneaky ninja knee bar beta it is le easy . 

The Outlaw and the ethics of route evolution .....

Ethics, they even haunt climbers....

Recently.... i placed a bolt in Castlewood Canyon. OOOh, i know I'm such an outlaw. 

Lets face some facts, hard climbing is nearly absent from castle wood canyon, there are one or two great bolted lines and a few Trad moderates,  due to the lack of attention the area receives the standards that are present in other area are not present in CWC. I have found a few wild new age lines just waiting to be climbed.... one of which is  Stratego

put up as a tope rope by Tom Hanson in 1990 it appears to never have received a true lead ascent.

Until a couple days ago, i dubbed the climb the "outlaw" being that it was never truly climbed i feel that a new name should be in order and i also cleared so much rock that it might in fact be a slightly different climb anyway. 

In the next couple months i intend on focusing in CWC to put up hard, committing lines with and with out bolts. 

The upper Crux... very reach

Thanks to Jose, Keith, and Danny for coming with me to all my random projects... 

New routes in Castlewood Canyon

I went out with Keith North and cleanen and climbed a new 5.12ish arete i have dubbed "the outlaw" to keep it in the nature of exciting rock climbs and due to the ban on bolting in castle wood i will be only putting one bolt on the route to protect the crux, so you will have to solo 25 feet of 5.10-5.11 rock to a protected 5.12 crux to a ground fall potential copout. so excited.

look for photos from the climb at HERE

I also soloed some easier routes .....

new route in CCC

Heart of Darkness 5.12a free solo    photos: Keith North

hells cave and days 2 - 3 at the trade show

Ben Palonko- crushing in American Fork

Jason from NYC reping some fresh Granit Life clothes 

me flailing in the Hells Cave  AFC - " the burning" 5.13b 

The condo the Hippy Tree boys rented us... filled to the brink

Josh Sweeney doing his selling thing,  a 16k dollar order was in sue

Curtis and Jason getting hooked, on the TREE and drinking fire 

DOg Fish Head 120 min 13% imperial IPA

The Cory Adams band... picking it good and proper

what can i say

Night 1 at Lumpys... if you in SLC... don't go here

The Jansport After party

trade show day 2

So the show is T- 1 day ... the hippy tree crew of Josh and Mike is here. I went climbing at the Hell cave at AMerican fork this morning and then helped setup the hippy booth....

setting up, this is the hippy rapist van....

and the hippy coin operated vending session

what happens when Utah has strict alcohol laws... you bring two kegs of 11% beer from california... trade show, prepare to be rocked

climb x before and....

the CLIMBX booth ( after setup ) 

The show 

Sweeney showing the dew rag

we went for a brewery tour at Uinta brewery in SLC ... it started like this 

and this.....

and this...

and this...

and ended like this.

ooh yeah and check this out... booyaaaa ca she  

setting up

here is what the trade show looks like before its all dressed up hussy like....

on the road... to the OR trade show

I left Denver yesterday for SLC with my homie Jose, he owns Granit life, a new clothing company on the climbing scene. We stopped for the night in provo last night and this morning we woke up to some clouds so before the rain came we shot up to the canyon and got in a few pitches and a new solo for me . attached are some photos from american fork. Im going to be posting up new stuff each day from the trade show.....

a video of my new boulder problem

Some climbing video's

today was day one of our photo shoot for Climb X and Jansport. We had a great session and until we get the photos up here is are some quick little video's that my friends and I have been climbing. 

Free Solo

Into the light V8

Chalk on rock V8

Climb X poster set

buildering in Denver with Matus

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PS7wz_cq6YM

Getting ready for the trade show....

Things have been pretty fast paced around here for a bit, I went to South Dakota for a long weekend to crush at Spearfish Canyon which was amazing, came back guided a few days and now my buddy Matus is in town. I have been climbing 6 days on 1 day off for about a steady month or two and its taking its toll, i have sent some things but over all i'm feeling lot's of pain, guess m getting old.  So perhaps some rest is in order.  In the mean time here are a couple randoms....

Pictures from South Dakota

South Dakota

This is  a new Addition to the Lincoln lake area, a v4 arete . This is Keith North getting a second ascent.

this is a picture of a truck on that truck... weird