Thursday, May 7, 2009

day 2


back for more trouble...

Day 2 was very simple, warm up with a free solo of Kloof 5.11a and fall repeatedly on Superfly 5.12d r. We went out and Shot photo's with Mike Sakas  the photos came out great, if not incriminating. I'll post those as soon as i get them.  SO since i dont have to much else i thought i would share some info on two routes i climbed last week. 

5. Blind faith 5.10a - this very popular line was put up by Jim Ericson in 1972 onsight freesolo, yes thats right, he walked up said "hey that goes" and bam, you have one of Eldo's most accessable classic 10's.  It has two cruxes and climbs much better than it looks. Below is a picture of Jim climbing the route many years later ,except with gear.Also the is a picture of myself climbing the route the way Jim did back in 1972 except i used new Madrock climbing shoes.


 the other route i wanted to talk about is a roof crack in the not so often climbed area of Hawk Eagle Ridge. The routes name is Cinch Crack which i think is just plain mean, because this thing is hard and not kinda hard but " damn those sandbaggers at Falcon guides hard" the guide gives it 12b but i would give it solid 12c . Anyway it short and sweet and steep, my personal favorites "s's". Dan Gambino took some amazing shots of it that you can check out here.

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