Tuesday, May 5, 2009

concept and "the beginning"



This blog is an attempt to chronicle 100 days of climbing in Eldorado Canyon in one year. All routes climbed  will be reviewed and sprayed about, good or bad. Think of this as a online guide to Eldo. 

yesterday was day 1. 

routes climbed-  w/ Lisa 

1.Vertigo 5.11-  which is a classic that should be repeated yearly, the ultimate way to climb this route is derek Hersey style free solo (pictured in the old eldo guide) . The last pitch gets the award for hero-pose-sending-action , while i feel the dihedral below is the crux.

2. Sequential 12a  onsight. A very good "all gear" route of which there are very few in the canyon.  Low in the grade.

3. Kloof 11a onsight.  Again very good, pumpy , steep and sustained, a rare combination for eldo. Deserves more traffic. I will consider soloing this route due to the clean line and top outable finish, 

4. Superfly 12d R Absolutely classic, i was unable to send today but maybe tommorrow. The climb is not too sustained, the crux revolves around a v5/6 boulder  problem that is amazing. Not to dangerous, but i also did not send, i will report back after the redpoint. 





 

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