Showing posts with label climbing. Show all posts
Showing posts with label climbing. Show all posts

Monday, August 15, 2011

The Outlaw and the ethics of route evolution .....

Ethics, they even haunt climbers....

Recently.... i placed a bolt in Castlewood Canyon. OOOh, i know I'm such an outlaw. 

Lets face some facts, hard climbing is nearly absent from castle wood canyon, there are one or two great bolted lines and a few Trad moderates,  due to the lack of attention the area receives the standards that are present in other area are not present in CWC. I have found a few wild new age lines just waiting to be climbed.... one of which is  Stratego


put up as a tope rope by Tom Hanson in 1990 it appears to never have received a true lead ascent.

Until a couple days ago, i dubbed the climb the "outlaw" being that it was never truly climbed i feel that a new name should be in order and i also cleared so much rock that it might in fact be a slightly different climb anyway. 

In the next couple months i intend on focusing in CWC to put up hard, committing lines with and with out bolts. 


The upper Crux... very reach





Thanks to Jose, Keith, and Danny for coming with me to all my random projects... 

Saturday, August 6, 2011

hells cave and days 2 - 3 at the trade show

Ben Palonko- crushing in American Fork


Jason from NYC reping some fresh Granit Life clothes 


me flailing in the Hells Cave  AFC - " the burning" 5.13b 



The condo the Hippy Tree boys rented us... filled to the brink


Josh Sweeney doing his selling thing,  a 16k dollar order was in sue


Curtis and Jason getting hooked, on the TREE and drinking fire 
DOg Fish Head 120 min 13% imperial IPA


The Cory Adams band... picking it good and proper


what can i say


Night 1 at Lumpys... if you in SLC... don't go here


The Jansport After party

Wednesday, August 3, 2011

trade show day 2

So the show is T- 1 day ... the hippy tree crew of Josh and Mike is here. I went climbing at the Hell cave at AMerican fork this morning and then helped setup the hippy booth....

setting up, this is the hippy rapist van....


and the hippy coin operated vending session


what happens when Utah has strict alcohol laws... you bring two kegs of 11% beer from california... trade show, prepare to be rocked

climb x before and....


the CLIMBX booth ( after setup ) 

The show 

Sweeney showing the dew rag


we went for a brewery tour at Uinta brewery in SLC ... it started like this 


and this.....


and this...


and this...

and ended like this.



ooh yeah and check this out... booyaaaa ca she  

Wednesday, June 29, 2011

Climbing in Thailand

I daydream.  I wouldn't say I'm a dreamer, but my mind wonders. While ice climbing and freezing in Colorado this winter I decided that enough is enough. While suffering is fun in a puritanical sort of way, I needed to be warm for a change. Deepwater soloing—climbing rock cliffs directly over warm ocean water without ropes— sounded like it would make the frost in my goggles disappear. 



The journey began: Denver to San Fransisco to Taiwan to Bangkok. From there I caught a small plane to Phuket, then took a boat to Ko Phi Phi. And then, finally, after my sixth layover, a final boat to Railay Beach— my destination. 






I arrived tired and hot; very, very hot; 90 degree's with 90 percent humidity hot; trying to get stuff done in a hot yoga room hot. Did I mention it was hot?

I suck down some Thai whisky for a nightcap and pass out, thanking God for AC, my priceless American comfort. I’m up again at 4:30am, jet lagged and wired, and realize that the moderate coolness of early morning, is perfect for climbing. Tonsai beach, Diamond Cave, the Oyster blade, and the ever impressive 200 meter tall Thaiwand all await. I'm the kind of guy that is so psyched it irritates people, and patience is a virtue that I don't have. So after cutting my morning teeth on some chill beach side climbing I head to rent a boat. Haggling with the boatman I note the boat’s large car motor precariously mounted at one end and assume the long propeller protruding from its backside is the boat’s namesake, the Longtail.



Nervous. 

Deep water soloing is, oddly enough, terrifying. It had sounded like a good ol’ time— cliff jumping mixed with climbing. But I’d failed to consider the ocean. A medium i am not very familiar with, not to mention falling into it ,intentionally, or even worse, by mistake, from sixty feet into dark, tumultuous water. My boatman stopped about fifty feet from a sheer cliff of a tiny, entirely rock island. If a comic super-villain needed a place to build his fortress I assume this would be it. The water is choppy as its now afternoon and the sun has abandoned me in this ever hot land. Normally the water looks inviting, sparkling turquoise and reminding me of a playground where children are comforted and safe. In the sun’s absence and rocking in my rickety boat over murky waters the world feels much less secure. And I’m already afraid of water. When I ask for a life jacket and for the boatman to take me closer, he just stares blankly at me. He doesn’t understand. I balk at the edge of the boat and he begins to make the sign language gesture for diving. If this is a game of charades it sucks. The waves are still big, and for a moment I wonder about just going back to the harsh mountains with the cold but familiar snow. 

Somehow I put on my climbing shoes and jump in without a life vest. I tell myself I don’t have a life vest because I have a shred of my ego left.  I swim to the base of the cliff, moving my long pale legs quickly at the thought of sea creatures swimming below. I am a child of the jaws generation, the sound track still plays in my head every time i get in the water. Just below the surface of the ocean the rock turns to razor sharp coral and the waves rise and fall five or six feet from peak to trough, crashing against the rock’s edge. I have to grab the rock above the water line just as the wave swells so as to get a good enough grip that I can hang on when the water rushes away leaving me with no option but to climb. That was the hard part.



Climbing is the easy part.  I dry my hands and start moving up a few feet, then ten, before I know it forty. I can now see what appears to be the whole dark ocean below me. I head up to fifty, then sixty feet and I'm done. This is it. Sixty feet is the highest height I'm willing to fall, at least for today.

I jump. 



When I hit the water I actually feel relieved, the ocean's menace is gone and I suddenly want to climb some more. My apprehension is gone. This is what I came five thousand miles to do.

Monday, May 9, 2011

new routes in the south platte

My friend and accomplice Josh ganged up for a quick mission into Cowboy Creek the home of our 2 year effort to establish some of the south platte's finer climbing. We got shot down on our main objective a tall free standing tower accessed by a 200 3-4-5 camalot splitter, so who just put up two perfect cracks near by... what a shame.. check out the photos...

this was pre climbing routine which ended up going way way to far... that bottle of whisky josh is clutching was emptied, to the last drop.

the tools of the trade, you know the route is going to be a bitch if you need at least 5 number 4 camalots

this is looking up at the second pitch of our intended tower route, it look short in the photo but that is a single 175 foot splitter. BOOM.
our newest addition, a perfect 5.10a finger crack, the seam closes at the top leading to a adventurous runout to the top. so sweet. As for a name...  how about "the green beam" 5.10a


the route below is a perfect but short fist crack to offwidth to pain and suffering death crack... we were pansy's and just TR'ed this one till next time.

Sunday, April 10, 2011

Dark waters

KIMBALLISTIC- verb-

 to unleash energy on one climb or area, completing every possible variation and making all necessary changes in a small, daily, intense period of time. 

He went kimbalistic on that boulder.


Kimball teaching Danny how to hand jam.....


I find myself, Adam Mckenzie, Brian Kimball and Danny Madison sitting below Dark Waters. It looks much different than the last time i saw it, about a year ago. The landing area is free of sharp rocks and is about 18 inches deeper than it was before. Some people have expressed that they dont like this kind of manufactured landing zone. My thoughts? 

a: its done, so don't cry about things that won't be undone.

b: if you really care about keeping it " natural " then don't drive on the road , or use chalk or shoes or a crash pad , don't film it, shoot photos about it, or post on your blog afterward. Or... just go somewhere else.

c: there is a mess of new hard boulder problems to enjoy, so enjoy them. 

anyway im done with that.

here are some pictures and video from the day.




Kimball sending a new v10 traverse - click here


A excellent v3 top out 


 photos by Danny Madison






Monday, February 28, 2011

Possible new route and moments of trepidation

Climbing is fickle, further facts are fickle. This presents a problem for people interested in climbing "new" routes or boulder problems. My thought process is either complicated or delusional so try and follow along if you want.

Over the last year i have enjoyed finding routes that have long been forgotten about, hiding under our noses in popular bouldering area's. Old top ropes put in to explore the tall faces of boulder problems or cliff bands, ones that were too high to climb without a rope. These top ropes were never "led" for lack of bolts or gear and after being explored they were left alone. I think. How do i know no one has ever climbed a piece of rock before? In climbing there is a ethic that a top rope ascent does not constitute a first ascent, one must climb the route with the rope below you or not at all.  These is were it gets rough.

In journalism one has to fact check, how do i do that in a world of dirt bags and recluses? Today its much easier to verify an ascent with videos and the internet abounding.  But 20 years ago,  the time that these anchors on the route I just climbed got put in, the information is harder to find.  To me this rock was new, I have been climbing at Morrison for 10 years with regularity and have never seen anyone even look at this chunk of rock. The old school crew like Rufus are probably responsible for the anchors and have more than likely tope roped this route, this is were i start making bold assumption like , what is the likelihood of anyone soloing/ bouldering a 30 v7? at that time, low.... very very low. But i have been wrong before.

I once did a route, and i thought it was new so i called it v8 and named it only to find out it was a well established but recently forgotten v4. Embarrassing.  Try explaining that to your buddy's who have casually done the route.... uh well used different beta......

Which leads me to my next thought. My girlfriend who does not climb, and doesn't care about climbing casual mentioned yesterday while i was ranting about grades that " those must be very arbitrary?" .....

is it that obvious?

Yes.

I am 6 foot 5 and weight 188 pounds today, i feel fit but not sport climber strong, i got a good night sleep but had a shitty breakfast and the gravity on earth felt medium-ish on this day, the route i climbed that may be a possible first ascent, felt v7/ or 13a. Thats how im going to grade things from now on.  If you don't have those same specifics the route will feel easier or harder.




in any case here is a video and some pictures.