Front Range Highballs... the definitive list *edit

I need help with this list.....


updated: may 14 2011




Rules:


- must be over 17 feet tall ( the height of the spot bouldering wall)
- a highball is named such due to its height from the ground not necessarily danger factor, i.e if the boulder is only 10 feet tall but over a pit of jagged rocks it might be more dangerous than a 20 foot problem but it is still not a highball
-must top out ( this applies to any boulder problem in my opinion )
-within 1 hour of  Denver
-harder than V1, otherwise it's scrambling  ( The mellon Patch in Hueco might be a lone exception)
- not be a route... let me explain. If i included solos in this list i would need to include the bastille crack and other obviously not boulder problem
-****** must be a classic, choss not included, i don't have that kind of free time .




this is just a starting list, please give me 4 star suggestions to add. 


Castle Wood Canyon:
Scary Monsters boulder- incredible, there are options here people....


splatt- v4 v7 or v8 with a fun topout, engageing but safeish. 


Boulder Canyon:


are there any?


Clear Creek Canyon:
Mavericks v5 - an excellent boulder with a flat landing and a exciting top out. 

This photo is not of mavericks but the north shore a v9 that shares the same finish, not as classic as mavericks but more of a challenge, also these problems are probably the safest highballs on the list.  Climbing is Sky Weekes. 

Flag Staff:


Loman’s Highball V5 -
Capstan- Sarabande V2 X - 


http://www.vimeo.com/14390510
here is the beta on the capstan
Double Clutch v8-9-10- fucking sweet but very scary.

"Double Clutch"

I know there are a ton of highballs in flag, i want to put together a list of the best.... Help




Morrison:
The lobby problems: v4 and v7/8 not sure on either of the names.

Eldorado:
Eastern Priest v5- Superb  but season dependent, hard start with easy climbing up high. 
Germ Free v5-8-  Maybe the most famous and classic of the bunch,
The egg boulder  ( multi var.) v1-8:    http://vimeo.com/11078101


Flatirons:
The Cube v5- not the tallest but thin and crimpy with near perfect rock.

 

"The Cube" V5

Evans:
The Nothing v8- crux down low , so relatively safe considering how tall it is. The hike is a sole crusher.
Peasants into leaders v8- Not amazing but good, thin crux up high, with a dangerous fall. 

"peasants into leader" will break your knees if you fall, just say'n

Masterpiece v3 - easy slab, easy with good foot work. 

Carter Lake:
Do boy v7- very tall very good, this arete is an ultra classic. 


this photo does not do it justice


Three Sisters: 
The Wisdom v4- juggy and tall with a flat landing, what more can you ask for. 


really all the climbs on this wall qualify or almost do,


Poudre Canyon:
rasta drop-
Nutsack hoedown-
flow futuristic-


RMNP:
Sky scraper v5- very tall, safer early season with more snow. 
Whispers of wisdom -
golden Ice-
Suicide season-


same goes here, i never climbed in the park that much..... need help. 

Possible new route and moments of trepidation

Climbing is fickle, further facts are fickle. This presents a problem for people interested in climbing "new" routes or boulder problems. My thought process is either complicated or delusional so try and follow along if you want.

Over the last year i have enjoyed finding routes that have long been forgotten about, hiding under our noses in popular bouldering area's. Old top ropes put in to explore the tall faces of boulder problems or cliff bands, ones that were too high to climb without a rope. These top ropes were never "led" for lack of bolts or gear and after being explored they were left alone. I think. How do i know no one has ever climbed a piece of rock before? In climbing there is a ethic that a top rope ascent does not constitute a first ascent, one must climb the route with the rope below you or not at all.  These is were it gets rough.

In journalism one has to fact check, how do i do that in a world of dirt bags and recluses? Today its much easier to verify an ascent with videos and the internet abounding.  But 20 years ago,  the time that these anchors on the route I just climbed got put in, the information is harder to find.  To me this rock was new, I have been climbing at Morrison for 10 years with regularity and have never seen anyone even look at this chunk of rock. The old school crew like Rufus are probably responsible for the anchors and have more than likely tope roped this route, this is were i start making bold assumption like , what is the likelihood of anyone soloing/ bouldering a 30 v7? at that time, low.... very very low. But i have been wrong before.

I once did a route, and i thought it was new so i called it v8 and named it only to find out it was a well established but recently forgotten v4. Embarrassing.  Try explaining that to your buddy's who have casually done the route.... uh well used different beta......

Which leads me to my next thought. My girlfriend who does not climb, and doesn't care about climbing casual mentioned yesterday while i was ranting about grades that " those must be very arbitrary?" .....

is it that obvious?

Yes.

I am 6 foot 5 and weight 188 pounds today, i feel fit but not sport climber strong, i got a good night sleep but had a shitty breakfast and the gravity on earth felt medium-ish on this day, the route i climbed that may be a possible first ascent, felt v7/ or 13a. Thats how im going to grade things from now on.  If you don't have those same specifics the route will feel easier or harder.

in any case here is a video and some pictures.