The Outlaw and the ethics of route evolution .....

Ethics, they even haunt climbers....

Recently.... i placed a bolt in Castlewood Canyon. OOOh, i know I'm such an outlaw. 

Lets face some facts, hard climbing is nearly absent from castle wood canyon, there are one or two great bolted lines and a few Trad moderates,  due to the lack of attention the area receives the standards that are present in other area are not present in CWC. I have found a few wild new age lines just waiting to be climbed.... one of which is  Stratego

put up as a tope rope by Tom Hanson in 1990 it appears to never have received a true lead ascent.

Until a couple days ago, i dubbed the climb the "outlaw" being that it was never truly climbed i feel that a new name should be in order and i also cleared so much rock that it might in fact be a slightly different climb anyway. 

In the next couple months i intend on focusing in CWC to put up hard, committing lines with and with out bolts. 

The upper Crux... very reach

Thanks to Jose, Keith, and Danny for coming with me to all my random projects... 

New routes in Castlewood Canyon

I went out with Keith North and cleanen and climbed a new 5.12ish arete i have dubbed "the outlaw" to keep it in the nature of exciting rock climbs and due to the ban on bolting in castle wood i will be only putting one bolt on the route to protect the crux, so you will have to solo 25 feet of 5.10-5.11 rock to a protected 5.12 crux to a ground fall potential copout. so excited.

look for photos from the climb at HERE

I also soloed some easier routes .....