Friday, April 30, 2010

Double Clutch Dyno

Two days ago Skyler Weekes was stoked to get me on this famous dyno on Flagstaff Mountain. I had heard of this Dyno as many other people have from the old movie “front Range Freaks.  The history of this problem is actually quite interesting. 
double_clutch 065 copy
Above: Matt Lloyd
It was first done a static boulder problem ( the hold that this used has since broken) by Bob Williams in 1972. Then Paul Glover ( in front range freaks ) does the dyno Rope less ( with a top rope pre rehearsal). I believe Brian Capps and Sean Drolet have both done this dyno and possibly Mike auldridge using “ some ridiculous number of crashpads, like 12 or 18 or something like that.” Skyler Weekes has done the dyno as well with no roped pre rehearsal.
Above: sky doing his thing

Anyway… The fall from this dyno is really quite terrifying. To put it in perspective i believe this dyno is easier that the Goat Dyno on the Millennium boulder and about the same as “white Men can’t Jump“ in Morrison. So really the difficulty of this dyno is not the crux rather the possibility of a bad 17 food fall to a uneven landing. Even thought i thinking grading a dyno is a bit ridicules M-project gives this thing a V8-9 which seams to be fair in comparison.  Below is some Media i have found of the climb. Either way i went up to this thing thinking it was going to be pretty easy and upon grabbing the start holds promptly gave up and drove back to boulder. The whole way back i was justifying my bail by saying “ it’s not worth a broken leg” and “ it’s just a stupid dyno” however after thinking about it for a while we decided to drive back up and give it a go. (sky is working a new larger dyno just to the right of double clutch )  so he was keen to bring the pads out and give it a go. Well i decided to give it a try, first i inttentionally jumped of the climb and took the fall just to try and convinced myself that i was not going to break my legs. Then i gave it a real go and stuck it second try ( the first fall reminded me that you can in fact break your legs ) .

Above: Front range freaks trailer ( small glimps of Paul Glover dynoing )

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