four days with Josh

four days with Josh can change your life… and it has many times, we get into the best trouble two like minded arrogant bastards can get into. we love the same things.

climbing scary , big routes. ( its a love hate thing)

Guns.

Whiskey.

Beautiful women.

nuff said.

below are some pictures from our trip, i will write a trip report for our attempt on The Titan when i get the sand out of my ass, until then checks these out.

 

Before driving out to Utah, Josh , Kylah, and I threw down in Flagstaff.

 

Kylah , showed us how it was done, seriously this girl is going to make us all look bad, She is 2 and half and can dead hang longer that most people my age.

We arrived at the fisher towers in Josh’s ghetto whip, we heated up some beans cowboy style and hiked our gear out there for what we thought was going to be a relatively easy climb.

This is the Titan, the tallest desert tower in north America.

racked up…  the goal of free climbing the crux the first day was put to rest by the for coming snow and rain that repeatedly crushed my dreams. i thought i was in Utah not Patagonia.

 

the following pictures are the 5.11+ 200 ft death march i had to do in the snow. Somehow it is lame and amazing at the same time.

my camera died after the first day, so josh has all the photos from the rest of the climb… so wait a god damn minute… there coming

Bitchen new Mad Rocks

 

Flagstaff Mountain.

if you know the names of any of these routes i would love too know. Today i went to Flag on a mission to taste some highball bouldering. I found what i was looking for.

FA of Babylon dyno by skyler weekes

Today Sky hooked up a massive new dyno at the Freight Train boulder near Gross Reservoir. It covers about 8 feet and looks truly impossible. Sky declined to grade it ( a wise decision) but said it felt harder than the Goat dyno at Millennium and White man can’t jump ( v10)  at Morrison.  I saw this dyno last week when Adam Mckenzie and i went to check out the climbs there. I took Sky there today to try the climb it and he sent in about 6 real try’s. I can’t wait to see what other people think of the dyno, especially those that repeated zion. Nice job Sky, way to keep doing your thing.

here is the video.

 

art in progress

This is where it all starts… as nothing much, sometimes it stays that way. Sometimes it becomes great.

the past and the future and a hangover

I have a eclectic mess of things to spread out on the interweb today. I will say that i went to bed at 5am this morning and might still be drunk while i am writing this . Which, by the way, is one of my cardinal rules that you should never be brake… So at least i acknowledge my mistakes now and continue with impunity.

First things first. I have been wanting to review different things on this site for a while, but had never really got around to it. I also have been wanting to go on a bender with by friend Josh for a long time but … you know life is… busy.

So here you go. Two birds , one stone, something like that.

(whiskey + energy drinks ) (matt + josh) = Review / bender

This is where the review begins. At vine street bar. a very marginal bar stacked with hippies. I hate there for i am.

But really this is about a bender right? Well, last night was about Bourbon. Every guy i know has his pants tied up real tight over scotch , I happen to be a fucking patriot and who likes good ole American made things like being bad ass and cowboys and Bourbon. For those of you that don’t know a little about a lot click here and catch up.

Bulleit is sweet and not charred, think sugarless soco, it is also very well priced for what you get at 25 bucks a bottle. I don’t have the patience for Margaritas like someone i know… so i just drink this stuff like it comes. sometimes with ice… but only sometimes.

Anyway all this leads to the part B of this night…i warn you watching this video will be a total waste of your time. you will want you 1 min back. You have been warned.

you really can put whatever you want on the internet. case in point.

below is a video of a new boulder problem i set at thrill seekers. Scope my Magic route setting skills.

My newest adventure

 This Video is from today, i hiked up by myself to north Table and did one of my solo circuits. I really enjoyed this route, i don't think its very hard maybe easy 5.10 ish. I also have some photos from the last couple of days. On a side note i have a idea, i am going to try and solo 100 routes in a day ( @ north Table)  my plan is to get out to the cliff around 7 am and pull the 12 hour day hopefully before it gets way to hot. The way i calculate it i will need to solo 8-10 routes an hour every hour all day. If anyone wants to come and hang out and relax in the sun, maybe yell some insults at me let me know. I am definitely bringing a bottle of whiskey up there and after route 100.... you get the idea.


This is Sam. He works at the Wilderness Exchange dealing with shipping and inventory and what not. This job affords him the luxury of climbing during the day which makes him a great accomplice to me. This picture above is of him soloing killians dead a stellar 5.7 crack.

This is me and the sky…. i have no earthly clue what route this is on, i just go and climb. i dont pay much attention to the details.

A free solo at the primo wall. I have a new project there so watch out son, big stuff is coming your way.
(below: this is me looking tough and adam is well… i think he is praying. and i guess he should be. sometimes when i havent seen a mirror i forget reality and i walk around thinking " damn i hansome" then i see a picture like this and it ruins the dream and i realize i am a tall goofy white guy. oooh the woes of life.

Eldorado…just a sample

Photo: Daniel Madson  Climbing: Matt Lloyd   Climb: Eastern Priest ELdorado Canyon state park.

click here for a link to more photos

DPM blurb

I wrote a little blub about climbing in Denver for Dead point Magazine. Below is the link. Enjoy.

Thanks to Mike Sakas and Danny Madson for hooking me up with some amazing photos to  use.  Let me know what you think of my first writing endeavor.

http://www.deadpointmag.com/articles/view/d-town-buildering