police, burritos and a wizard

yeah … the name says it all. Things happened. I suppose they always do just sometimes with more intention than others.

1. I got pulled over, lost my cool and yelled at a cop for no reason. He was going to give me a 1 point ticket and instead after i swore at him i got a court date. If you ever need a bad situation to get worse, call uncle matt over i can fix you up a nice glass of disaster with your dinner.

2. After years of talking up a big game i did it. I consumed 2 chipotle burritos in under 20 minutes . Chicken, fajatas, black beans, rice, cheese, extra sour cream. booh yaa i am all that is man .

before

 

this was the last bite… i look less than happy but i was thrilled.

3. i climbed a rock and made a video.

Update

so i have a couple thoughts….
1. The sun is badass. Just say’n. Today i went out to Morrison and was able to rock climb in the warm sun. I couldn't ask for more. I was able to send cyto-center which i think gets v10. I have only climbed a handful of climbs in the double digit grade range so i was pretty psyched. Being tall obviously helped a bunch. Anyway it was fun. I also tried the old finish to helicopter ( pictured below) it adds some hard scary moves to the end of a already great classic boulder problem.



2. My second thought plays off the first. This weekend i ate a pizza. Great you say… well this pizza was not like any other pizza. Do not be alarmed , nay… do not be afraid. This pizza , the pizza living in my belly was amazing. Squash, sage, garlic….. what else… Baggett doe… more more … yes… goat cheese… mozzarella …. rest your eyes on this my friend.. and prepare to weep

3. I'll stop now before the madness continues…

some art…like things

despite what you might think i sometime don't climb….
what most people don't know is i try and make things from time to time. i wanted to share some of those things. i made these two pieces this week.

i found this door in a dumpster this morning…. i felt so sketchy dumpster diving.

but im pretty happy with the result.

a closet door at stage 1. of the shanagans.

add some paint… good old fashion house paint.

The Virus 5.12a solo

Today i got bored and hiked up to N. Table mountain and did a quick head point of “the virus” i tried to on sight solo it but after looking at the move ( while on the route) and looking at a potentially crippling fall i decided to get a rope and scope it. i climbed it roped once or twice and then pulled the rope and fired it.

I'm psyched , even though this route is less than classic. Anytime i can solo 5.12 i feel pretty tough or dumb or a combination of both… As a side note i have decided to start soloing with a helmet, as you can see in the video. I feel that it will

help out in the 30 ft and under routes significantly. i also used a crash pad on this route. yeah i know I'm a sissy.

a video from Morrison

i have more to share…. but it will have to wait.

Running… a concept of training.

Due to not seeing the results that i want from my current training program i am going to do something reckless, perhaps even crazy. I am going to change things up ( what a concept) .  The changes are as follows.

1. Make an attempt to drop my climbing days from 6 per week to as little as 4. 5 is most likely. I’m thinking a European style of 3 on 2 0ff will  work well.  ( a rest day is any day that i do not use my “pulling muscles”, a rest day can and will include a weight or cardio workout) . I have in the past played with many days on ( up to 10 or 15 days in a row0 as well as day on day off training. I feel that the first increases your chance of injury to unacceptable levels and and the latter doesn't seem to offer enough in overall fitness that I'm looking for.

2. Focus on varying my work outs. Difficult day, easy day, so on. I already do this but with no clear pattern or thought. Also i already supplement my climbing with 3 days of weights and 1 day of yoga per week. I will continue with this but try and track my progress closer.

3. As of now i only do minor cardio work, i run to and from the gym 3 days a week which only works out to 3/4 of a mile each way9 4.5 miles per week…sad) .  i would like to increase this and incorporate sprinting into my program. I feel one of the things missing in most runners program is all out sprinting. John Dunn, old time rifle master, used to say that if you were having trouble sealing the deal on your project ( i.e you were falling at the chains or almost sticking the crux) you should take a few days off from climbing and do high intensity running.  I have no science to back that up but it seams to make sense in my head.

I went to the track and had Gabe time me for a starting point of my running . I will track my progress and test this new idea out.

 

Baseline.   02/07/2010

100 yard dash- a pretty bad 00:13:5 sec

400 meter- 00:58:00

the mile- 06:32:12

4. Try and incorporate 2 massages per month. Dave Wahl from Athletic Specific told me once that when using your body as a tool and for work like i do, you need to think of it like you would a car or any other tool. Maintenance will keep you car/ body running in top form for much longer. 100 bucks a month is a small price to pay for that i suppose.

Click here for more “science”  on the running nonsense.

 

If anyone has any advice for me i would be psyched to hear it.

a moving picture…

Adam made this little video from our previous Castlewood adventure. Enjoy.

 

on a side note i got some new climbing holds from  SOILL and they are creepy. Well they will be up soon at Thrillseekers so come out and grab some baby heads… yeah thats right i said baby heads.