Wednesday, April 27, 2011

Front Range Highballs... the definitive list *edit

I need help with this list.....


updated: may 14 2011




Rules:


- must be over 17 feet tall ( the height of the spot bouldering wall)
- a highball is named such due to its height from the ground not necessarily danger factor, i.e if the boulder is only 10 feet tall but over a pit of jagged rocks it might be more dangerous than a 20 foot problem but it is still not a highball
-must top out ( this applies to any boulder problem in my opinion )
-within 1 hour of  Denver
-harder than V1, otherwise it's scrambling  ( The mellon Patch in Hueco might be a lone exception)
- not be a route... let me explain. If i included solos in this list i would need to include the bastille crack and other obviously not boulder problem
-****** must be a classic, choss not included, i don't have that kind of free time .




this is just a starting list, please give me 4 star suggestions to add. 


Castle Wood Canyon:
Scary Monsters boulder- incredible, there are options here people....


splatt- v4 v7 or v8 with a fun topout, engageing but safeish. 


Boulder Canyon:


are there any?


Clear Creek Canyon:
Mavericks v5 - an excellent boulder with a flat landing and a exciting top out. 




This photo is not of mavericks but the north shore a v9 that shares the same finish, not as classic as mavericks but more of a challenge, also these problems are probably the safest highballs on the list.  Climbing is Sky Weekes. 




Flag Staff:


Loman’s Highball V5 -
Capstan- Sarabande V2 X - 


http://www.vimeo.com/14390510
here is the beta on the capstan
Double Clutch v8-9-10- fucking sweet but very scary.
"Double Clutch"


I know there are a ton of highballs in flag, i want to put together a list of the best.... Help




Morrison:
The lobby problems: v4 and v7/8 not sure on either of the names.






Eldorado:
Eastern Priest v5- Superb  but season dependent, hard start with easy climbing up high. 
Germ Free v5-8-  Maybe the most famous and classic of the bunch,
The egg boulder  ( multi var.) v1-8:    http://vimeo.com/11078101


Flatirons:
The Cube v5- not the tallest but thin and crimpy with near perfect rock.
 
"The Cube" V5


Evans:
The Nothing v8- crux down low , so relatively safe considering how tall it is. The hike is a sole crusher.
Peasants into leaders v8- Not amazing but good, thin crux up high, with a dangerous fall. 
"peasants into leader" will break your knees if you fall, just say'n


Masterpiece v3 - easy slab, easy with good foot work. 





Carter Lake:
Do boy v7- very tall very good, this arete is an ultra classic. 


this photo does not do it justice


Three Sisters: 
The Wisdom v4- juggy and tall with a flat landing, what more can you ask for. 


really all the climbs on this wall qualify or almost do,


Poudre Canyon:
rasta drop-
Nutsack hoedown-
flow futuristic-


RMNP:
Sky scraper v5- very tall, safer early season with more snow. 
Whispers of wisdom -
golden Ice-
Suicide season-


same goes here, i never climbed in the park that much..... need help. 

Tuesday, April 26, 2011

Portland Oregon

I went to Portland to say hi to the climb x crew last weekend, these are a few photos from the trip.

 this is Joe Garland, he has been a major player in the outdoor industry for more than 20 years, he also rides motorized skate board that go really really fast.

sinince it was raining in portland, weird, i had to climb in the gym. Fellow Climb X athlete Matt owns 




the gym with his father check it out here


this is some pool action at Joes Birthday....

Saturday, April 23, 2011

some new boulders

here is a link to a video my buddy adam made of a new problem we put up in CCC.

Enjoy.


http://www.vimeo.com/22760583

Monday, April 11, 2011

stow away kitchen table

my little project for the weekend was to build a stow away kitchen table, i live in a small house and i am sick of eating on the couch with my demon cat trying to steal my food and knock over my beer....


This is how the table looks while in the vertical position. I painted a white pattern on the back of the table to simulate a piece of art hanging on the wall, so it doesn't look like a table hanging on the wall... which it is....not too sure if i achieved that goal.



this is a side view, you can see the metal conduit  legs that stow away in the table, you can also see magnets that keep the table locked to the wall while stowed.



The legs... with a wooden platform to protect my already shitty hardwood floor.

zoom, of the magnets...

 the opening in action.

in the down position. 


Sunday, April 10, 2011

Dark waters

KIMBALLISTIC- verb-

 to unleash energy on one climb or area, completing every possible variation and making all necessary changes in a small, daily, intense period of time. 

He went kimbalistic on that boulder.


Kimball teaching Danny how to hand jam.....


I find myself, Adam Mckenzie, Brian Kimball and Danny Madison sitting below Dark Waters. It looks much different than the last time i saw it, about a year ago. The landing area is free of sharp rocks and is about 18 inches deeper than it was before. Some people have expressed that they dont like this kind of manufactured landing zone. My thoughts? 

a: its done, so don't cry about things that won't be undone.

b: if you really care about keeping it " natural " then don't drive on the road , or use chalk or shoes or a crash pad , don't film it, shoot photos about it, or post on your blog afterward. Or... just go somewhere else.

c: there is a mess of new hard boulder problems to enjoy, so enjoy them. 

anyway im done with that.

here are some pictures and video from the day.




Kimball sending a new v10 traverse - click here


A excellent v3 top out 


 photos by Danny Madison






Wednesday, April 6, 2011

random video crap

Adam and i went to Carter to try dough boys a highball v7, a classic highball created when a boulder slid of the opposing hillside and laded vertically to create an amazing boulder.... but we couldn't send...  at least not today, so i will go back to finish it up.


this is frank trying dough boys


IMG_6321.JPG.jpg



so anyway we shot some random video just for fun....