check this out

check this out....


oh pioneers!!!

IBEX utah

its been a while.

but im back.  Here is a link to a new video i was just involved in. I also have been up to lots else, mainly studying which is hard for me .  Not to worry though, i have been climbing too. I have pics and video to put up soon.

http://www.deadpointmag.com/videos/watch/matt-loyd-darkside-boulders

El Cap Trip report…. to come

for now here are some pictures… enjoy

http://picasaweb.google.com/relentlessclimbing/ElCap?authkey=Gv1sRgCMDpxIy6rIi6KA#

most inspiring videos

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z19zFlPah-o

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pPTtdPn-VSY

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HQ7R_buZPSo

a free solo in freemont..... more to come

Cardiac Arrest 5.13a/b FA

Josh and I went up to our new little wall and put in day 6 of bolting and climbing. I was fortunately able to climb my extenuation to Rufus's 5.13a route called Kodiak arrest. It adds about 30 feet of hard 5.11 climbing to the bottom of the existing route.  Also josh is amost done bolting the 150 5.10 we have been working on, only 3 bolts to go. 

this is josh lowering of the 5.12, i think it gives great scale of the routes and the exposure. This is not the primo wall.

on the redpoint burn....

Josh bolting with our slightly girlie Bausch 24 hammer drill ( we need a upgrade)

more on the new route….s

 

 

The anchors are in and the climbing has commenced.  People who have never established a new route ( and boulder problems don’t count) have no idea how much work it is. hand drilling bolts ground up in granite is work ,like cowboy work not desk work. 

 

 

we started the day by setting up a Tyrolean across the river to speed up the process of hiking back and forth from the car to recharge batters and get supplies. This proved to be a lot of work but it was fun.

 

once across the river we ascended our fixed lines that i put up yesterday. I climbed the two pitch route with 3 bad cam placements to get to the top. It was wicked scary but worth it. The first two pitches weigh in at around 5.10- . Both josh and i are excited about the quality of the climbing and the chance to contribute something a little more moderate to the climbing community. To date my first acsents include a 5.12c, 5.12d, 5.13d, 5.13b, and a slew of hard run out r/x 5.11s…. not for the faint of heart.

 

hand drilling bolts suck, especially in bullet hard granite. It takes about 30-40 mins per bolt. We have a 24v hammerdrill but it doesn't do that great in rock this hard so the battery will only last for about one and a half holes per charge.

This is the business, the purpose, the goal… a perfect overhanging wall about 50 feet tall and ripe for the taking.  upon arriving at the steep wall we discovered some bolts here already. i climbed the route and discovered absolutely fantastic rock quality and a opportunity for a new very hard and very beautiful route. I have a full summer folks… action time is here.

new routes

My friend Josh and i are in the mists of putting up some new routes, the whole process is everything I love about climbing. Adventure, its the name of the game. Today you just get some pics, Tomorrow you get the goods. 

check out this wall, super steep and clean. 

art… or matt plays with paint… aka a mess is made

Millennium boulder

i went out with sky to take some photos for his sponsor Bazi and do some climbing myself. This is  the result.

 

the roadside project... aka super doom project... aka my back and legs hurt from the 25 footers project

here are a couple pictures from my new project courtesy of Danny Madson.

The line is just right of the west-side connection, due to it's height and flat landing i am choosing to boulder this climb instead of adding bolts or leading it. i don't care how anyone else climbs it, its not a judgment just a choice of style. ( just a note> the crux of this route is parallel to the anchors of the west side connection) 

This is how many pads we had, we could have used more. Also i look like im doing a sweet little dance. 

This is the beginning of the crux, which starts at about 18 feet. look at Adams little arms down below... he was spotting like he wasn't going to run away if i fell... but i guess i cant blame him. i would run too.

I busted out the top rope to dial in the top moves. The climb feels pretty hard to me, but i dont have any real idea how hard it is. it could be 5.12 or 5.13 not really sure.

After Climbing i wanted to take out some rage, so i ran around and pummeled Adam with a large crash pad... look at his advanced defense techniques.

Double Clutch Dyno

Two days ago Skyler Weekes was stoked to get me on this famous dyno on Flagstaff Mountain. I had heard of this Dyno as many other people have from the old movie “front Range Freaks.  The history of this problem is actually quite interesting. 

Above: Matt Lloyd
It was first done a static boulder problem ( the hold that this used has since broken) by Bob Williams in 1972. Then Paul Glover ( in front range freaks ) does the dyno Rope less ( with a top rope pre rehearsal). I believe Brian Capps and Sean Drolet have both done this dyno and possibly Mike auldridge using “ some ridiculous number of crashpads, like 12 or 18 or something like that.” Skyler Weekes has done the dyno as well with no roped pre rehearsal.

Above: sky doing his thing

Anyway… The fall from this dyno is really quite terrifying. To put it in perspective i believe this dyno is easier that the Goat Dyno on the Millennium boulder and about the same as “white Men can’t Jump“ in Morrison. So really the difficulty of this dyno is not the crux rather the possibility of a bad 17 food fall to a uneven landing. Even thought i thinking grading a dyno is a bit ridicules M-project gives this thing a V8-9 which seams to be fair in comparison.  Below is some Media i have found of the climb. Either way i went up to this thing thinking it was going to be pretty easy and upon grabbing the start holds promptly gave up and drove back to boulder. The whole way back i was justifying my bail by saying “ it’s not worth a broken leg” and “ it’s just a stupid dyno” however after thinking about it for a while we decided to drive back up and give it a go. (sky is working a new larger dyno just to the right of double clutch )  so he was keen to bring the pads out and give it a go. Well i decided to give it a try, first i inttentionally jumped of the climb and took the fall just to try and convinced myself that i was not going to break my legs. Then i gave it a real go and stuck it second try ( the first fall reminded me that you can in fact break your legs ) .

Above: Front range freaks trailer ( small glimps of Paul Glover dynoing )