The Outlaw and the ethics of route evolution .....

Ethics, they even haunt climbers....

Recently.... i placed a bolt in Castlewood Canyon. OOOh, i know I'm such an outlaw. 

Lets face some facts, hard climbing is nearly absent from castle wood canyon, there are one or two great bolted lines and a few Trad moderates,  due to the lack of attention the area receives the standards that are present in other area are not present in CWC. I have found a few wild new age lines just waiting to be climbed.... one of which is  Stratego

put up as a tope rope by Tom Hanson in 1990 it appears to never have received a true lead ascent.

Until a couple days ago, i dubbed the climb the "outlaw" being that it was never truly climbed i feel that a new name should be in order and i also cleared so much rock that it might in fact be a slightly different climb anyway. 

In the next couple months i intend on focusing in CWC to put up hard, committing lines with and with out bolts. 

The upper Crux... very reach

Thanks to Jose, Keith, and Danny for coming with me to all my random projects... 

New routes in Castlewood Canyon

I went out with Keith North and cleanen and climbed a new 5.12ish arete i have dubbed "the outlaw" to keep it in the nature of exciting rock climbs and due to the ban on bolting in castle wood i will be only putting one bolt on the route to protect the crux, so you will have to solo 25 feet of 5.10-5.11 rock to a protected 5.12 crux to a ground fall potential copout. so excited.

look for photos from the climb at HERE

I also soloed some easier routes .....

new route in CCC

Heart of Darkness 5.12a free solo    photos: Keith North

hells cave and days 2 - 3 at the trade show

Ben Palonko- crushing in American Fork

Jason from NYC reping some fresh Granit Life clothes 

me flailing in the Hells Cave  AFC - " the burning" 5.13b 

The condo the Hippy Tree boys rented us... filled to the brink

Josh Sweeney doing his selling thing,  a 16k dollar order was in sue

Curtis and Jason getting hooked, on the TREE and drinking fire 

DOg Fish Head 120 min 13% imperial IPA

The Cory Adams band... picking it good and proper

what can i say

Night 1 at Lumpys... if you in SLC... don't go here

The Jansport After party

trade show day 2

So the show is T- 1 day ... the hippy tree crew of Josh and Mike is here. I went climbing at the Hell cave at AMerican fork this morning and then helped setup the hippy booth....

setting up, this is the hippy rapist van....

and the hippy coin operated vending session

what happens when Utah has strict alcohol laws... you bring two kegs of 11% beer from california... trade show, prepare to be rocked

climb x before and....

the CLIMBX booth ( after setup ) 

The show 

Sweeney showing the dew rag

we went for a brewery tour at Uinta brewery in SLC ... it started like this 

and this.....

and this...

and this...

and ended like this.

ooh yeah and check this out... booyaaaa ca she  

setting up

here is what the trade show looks like before its all dressed up hussy like....

on the road... to the OR trade show

I left Denver yesterday for SLC with my homie Jose, he owns Granit life, a new clothing company on the climbing scene. We stopped for the night in provo last night and this morning we woke up to some clouds so before the rain came we shot up to the canyon and got in a few pitches and a new solo for me . attached are some photos from american fork. Im going to be posting up new stuff each day from the trade show.....