more on the new route….s

 

 

The anchors are in and the climbing has commenced.  People who have never established a new route ( and boulder problems don’t count) have no idea how much work it is. hand drilling bolts ground up in granite is work ,like cowboy work not desk work. 

 

 

we started the day by setting up a Tyrolean across the river to speed up the process of hiking back and forth from the car to recharge batters and get supplies. This proved to be a lot of work but it was fun.

 

once across the river we ascended our fixed lines that i put up yesterday. I climbed the two pitch route with 3 bad cam placements to get to the top. It was wicked scary but worth it. The first two pitches weigh in at around 5.10- . Both josh and i are excited about the quality of the climbing and the chance to contribute something a little more moderate to the climbing community. To date my first acsents include a 5.12c, 5.12d, 5.13d, 5.13b, and a slew of hard run out r/x 5.11s…. not for the faint of heart.

 

hand drilling bolts suck, especially in bullet hard granite. It takes about 30-40 mins per bolt. We have a 24v hammerdrill but it doesn't do that great in rock this hard so the battery will only last for about one and a half holes per charge.

This is the business, the purpose, the goal… a perfect overhanging wall about 50 feet tall and ripe for the taking.  upon arriving at the steep wall we discovered some bolts here already. i climbed the route and discovered absolutely fantastic rock quality and a opportunity for a new very hard and very beautiful route. I have a full summer folks… action time is here.

new routes

My friend Josh and i are in the mists of putting up some new routes, the whole process is everything I love about climbing. Adventure, its the name of the game. Today you just get some pics, Tomorrow you get the goods. 

check out this wall, super steep and clean. 

art… or matt plays with paint… aka a mess is made

Millennium boulder

i went out with sky to take some photos for his sponsor Bazi and do some climbing myself. This is  the result.

 

the roadside project... aka super doom project... aka my back and legs hurt from the 25 footers project

here are a couple pictures from my new project courtesy of Danny Madson.

The line is just right of the west-side connection, due to it's height and flat landing i am choosing to boulder this climb instead of adding bolts or leading it. i don't care how anyone else climbs it, its not a judgment just a choice of style. ( just a note> the crux of this route is parallel to the anchors of the west side connection) 

This is how many pads we had, we could have used more. Also i look like im doing a sweet little dance. 

This is the beginning of the crux, which starts at about 18 feet. look at Adams little arms down below... he was spotting like he wasn't going to run away if i fell... but i guess i cant blame him. i would run too.

I busted out the top rope to dial in the top moves. The climb feels pretty hard to me, but i dont have any real idea how hard it is. it could be 5.12 or 5.13 not really sure.

After Climbing i wanted to take out some rage, so i ran around and pummeled Adam with a large crash pad... look at his advanced defense techniques.