Its been a pretty hefty brake this summer but Eldo just isn't the place to climbing during the hot summer months. My partner in crime Scott has returned from a very successful summer in the Valley and so we headed out to eldo on Saturday for good day of climbing. I found myself feeling quite out of the game though, climbing slowly and fumbling with gear like a gumby. Still we were able to climb some very cool pitches. We climbed Interceptor to XM to Outer space to Saturnalia and then Neon lights for the complete Bastille Day. I forgot my camera so no pic's today but i will go back and get some shots soon.
Interceptor 5.11b R - this route is amazing and quite hard with a difficult slab crux on some smaller gear. I'm not sure it deserves the "R" as your feet are at some gear while you pull the crux but it's still enough to get the heart beat up. If you yank that piece your taking a 30 footer, which in some sick way i hoped would happen.
XM 5.10c R - ok so this one deserves the "R" if you fall at the crux your only gear is two terrible looking pins. I have climbed the right variation before but stayed clear of this due to it's relatively daunting fall potential. This climb is short and scary but a full value eldo classic. If your feeling tough at the grade i totally recommend this route... just remember this beta.... smear, crimp , huck....aaahhhh we finished XM to Outer space which i have climbed about a million times and always gets me thinking.
Saturnalia 5.11b (pg13) - how did i miss this route? i always thought that Outer space was exposed...hah this thing is sweet and exciting and everything i want out of a 5.11 on the Bastille. cruxy, exciting but not dangerous, and ooh so exposed.
Neon lights 5.11a R - just to the right of "your mother 5.12d" sits this roof crack. it's hard for the grade but actually very safe.... does not deserve the "R" short and sweet. After climbing this i realised that it was probably my first time on the true top of the Bastille.
Wishbone 5.11 b/c (pg13) - first off no bolted route can be "pg 13" yeah it's run out and scary but every fall is totally safe. This route was cryptic and technical and hard. felt like a 5.12a onsight to me. and i didn't onsight. this route is hard to find sitting at the base of the west ridge.
