a video blast from the past

a few years back Josh Lieninger and i bolted a new route, that turned out being cool and hard. This video is about the highway man 5.13d, in Deer Creek Canyon, CO. The video was shot by Nelson Carayannis who now works at chuckfryberger.com

enjoy!

revisiting El Cap

Last summer i climbed El Capitan via the Nose with Aaron Prouty, i have been thinking about the route and i hope to go back in the spring and nail down the NIAD ( nose- in-a-day) as the cool kids are calling it. It was really fun to climb it slow and spend some nights on the wall with Aaron and im glad that was my first time to the top of the wall, but now i want to do it without suffering. Here are some pictures from last year.

Random ledge sleeping

The great roof, a wild and long pitch.

                                               Looking down from camp 6 ( 2500' feet to the valley floor)

                                                       Aaron leading up off texas flake heading to the boot flake

                                     Me sitting on Texas Flake.  To get there you have to chimney ( without and protection ) in the space between the flake and the wall.

rant of the day.....

How many times have you heard a teenager talk about how bad this or that is and you look at them and think “ Whats wrong? Let me tell you whats wrong, nothing.”  People say “I hate my life , it sucks blah blah blah” then your ass is about one nano second from falling into a deep dark abyss of doom and guess what? Sad Susan is begging for her life with all of its imperfections. I know this because i've done it. Have a bad day? Your taxes are late, no rent, your girlfriend is pissed, rough huh? Not really. The idea of falling hundreds of feet into jagged rocks seems so distant from you couch that it could be impossible , it's not, and if you've never looked down that barrel then you are going to have to trust me on this, it ranks up there with circling sharks in blood filled water. You will beg for a school bus full of kids, stuck in L.A traffic, drinking red bull and playing with cans of pepper spray. It can Always be worse.

Enter Contrast.

So is there a point to this, well maybe.

Climbing and Climbers

BAIL- Verb. Meaning to quit, Something one climber says to another, pack it up, head to the comfort of your mother.

High in the sierra's in early winter...

“This is heinous” We were climbing vertical snow, not that nice solid stuff that inspires confidence but the snow thats more bitch than bull. Oh yeah and it was bloody nose cold, windy and we didn’t want to cowboy up anymore. Our previously bold talk had be silenced by tail-between-our-legs conditions. And so, sitting on the saddle between pillars of steep rock the conversation went like this.

“I'm cold, I mean I might be....”

“yeah”

“im not sure about this, it looks like a storm is coming, this could be a good point to....”

“yeah”

“you want too?”

“fuck”

“sooo?”

“bail, yeah, but i'm glad you said it first”

Bail, its the bell at the end of recess. The word can be heard before it's said, eye's scream it like a siren before the mouth has the courage to mutters those syllables and offer totally inadequate excuse for the action about to be executed.

I've done it, more times than I want to admit. There are lots of reasons to pack it in; cold, heat, difficulty, exhaustion, general cowardice. After some of my particular “bails” I look back and say, that was a great decision or man i'm such a sissy.

Failure is not spoken of as much as its practiced. Think about it, over beers people like to talk about being badass not weak sauce. And so it gets a bad rap. As any good climber knows, we push ourselves, hard. More often than not we over estimate our abilities and end up retreating. This is how progress is made. Being aggressive is the name of our game, hanging it out there and seeing what we can do. Standing in contrast to sports where failure does not include death the ability to make assessments about ones capacity to get out of this or that particular mess keeps you alive. We call it commitment and you don't have to be on a mountain to feel it, run out a sport climb that you cant down climb or get high on a tall boulder and wait for it... yeah there it is.... and the sphincter tightens .

  

check this out

check this out....


oh pioneers!!!

IBEX utah

its been a while.

but im back.  Here is a link to a new video i was just involved in. I also have been up to lots else, mainly studying which is hard for me .  Not to worry though, i have been climbing too. I have pics and video to put up soon.

http://www.deadpointmag.com/videos/watch/matt-loyd-darkside-boulders