it's been a few days...

today routes were...

#12 The bulge 5.7R

Not really cutting edge but it makes a great solo. It's long and has no major ledges on it like the bastille. Below is a picture of my friend Matus soloing the route, i soloed up calypso to get the pictures. This is a great cruiser route to do when you feel like climbing something easy that is still engaging.

The next route i thought of reviewing is #13 Terminal Velocity 5.11R its a so so route but i have some cool photos from a few years ago i wanted to share.

rain rain rain

So when did we wake up in the Pacific northwest? i managed to hike out to the Maiden with plans of soloing it but it started raining, rather than slipping and dying i decided to hike down. Here is a weird panorama shot.

the man

Derek Hersey

100 degrees from eldo

Look closely in the middle.... the route is Physical Graffiti in Calico Basin 

I haven't climbed in Eldo for a couple of days since ive been in vegas. Before i left i found a new line that im psyched about in eldo that i think will fall into the 13a/b r/x category ... look back for more on that in the future. Until then here are some shots from Vegas this week. 

                                                       ( above) In and Out burger... nothing says satisfaction like a double double animal style with whole grilled onions and a strawberry shake....

                                                       (below)  climbing on the monkey bars boulder the Kraft boulder's

 

someone did it better

i was going to write a bit about climbing yesterday but my buddy Scott beat me to it and probably did it with better grammar. So check it out here....

#11 Real men eat eggs 5.11+ R/X

sunset boulevard and poly gap

So after a little setting at the gym my friend and tormentor of  souls , Brendan Aiken and i went for a little Kloof session .  After a little first try jitters Brendan sent the classic "Sequential" 12.a . Then i sent (#9)Poly Gap 12.a which was not classic but still worth the moments of shear terror involved in the upper 11 section.  After a speed session at Kloof we bailed out of the oven to the west face of the Bastille which was windier than  something that is really windy. Anyway we climbed (#10)"Sunset boulevard" 11.c  which is consensus 11.b . this route is absolutely classic, it's only drawback is that it is a sport climb.  ( the route is pictured on the left with brendan hooking it up) 

outer-space and Hair styles and Attitude

Today i climbed perhaps the best climb on the Bastille. 

6. Outer-Space 5.10+

Anyone who climbs this route knows why it has it's name, you feel like you alone on the moon. The route host's some of the most amazing exposure found in Eldo. Weighing in at a relatively easy 5.10+ and 3 pitches long, you can climb this route on even the hottest days of summer. I have climbed this route many times including once free solo.  Photo on left is Andrea on the last pitch. 

7. Hair styles and Attitudes 5.12c/d

This route takes the breathtaking headwall at the top center of the Bastille. It is a adventurous sport climb ( if you can say that) . The route took me 2 days to red point. good fun and well worth it. Perhaps a shade easier than the Evictor but more classic of a line. I think this route could go on a all natural , all gear ascent. 

(pictured above) 

8. Kings X 5.10+ ( but in my opinion solid 5.11a/b )

Henious.... full value and scary. oooh yeah and very very fun. It's like a easier version of the bombay pitch on the naked edge.  A good test of your smearing and stemming skills. Harder than vertigo which gets 11a .